Taste Etc: Bobby Baker

In 1998, I was commissioned by the Centre for Performance Research to create an artwork for their journal on performance art and food. This is a retrospective recipe to accompany this work, Displaying the Sunday Dinner, that I made with photographer Andrew Whittuck.

First, receive an invitation to submit a piece for a journal on performance, explain I don’t write stuff like that but that I’ve got an idea for a photographic image I want to create and suggest that to them instead.

Ask for a fee, they say ‘sorry, no’ but offer a tiny allowance for expenses. Be fed up about that but decide to do it anyway.

Persuade photographer who I collaborate with (husband) to work on it despite mutual financial crisis.

Look at the book which inspired the idea for the artwork, have enthusiastic conversation and search out photographer’s favourite tarpaulin backdrop.

Next, go to supermarket and local greengrocers. Become extra thrilled upon finding the perfect bunch of carrots.

Prepare food, make outfit, bake puddings to stand in and ponder what can be recooked for a family meal afterwards. Then, go up and down stairs, from kitchen to studio, shouting at/to each other.

Help hang tarpaulin in his studio, assess how brown roast potatoes should be and try out bonnet in the hall mirror.

Find clean overalls, do makeup, assemble outfit and get dressed. Stand for hours on set, checking Polaroids many times, and worry about things like money and my mother who seems to have started phoning me more than once a day...

Bicker about how long it’s taking. Finally, agree that it’s in the bag, wait with bated breath to see the film...

Feel triumphant.

^{A recreation of Bobby Baker’s edible installation An Edible Family in a Mobile Home 1976/2023 is open on the South Lawn, Tate Britain, until 7 April.}

^{Bobby Baker is a multidisciplinary artist and activist who regularly uses food as a medium to explore themes including feminism, domestic life and mental health.}