This painting is in oil paint on a wooden panel measuring 1000 x 806 mm (fig.1). The oak panel is composed of three vertical, radially cut boards, butt joined together with glue (figs.2–3). Their respective widths are as follows, from left to right with the panel viewed from the front: 238; 327; 245 mm. Dendrochronology revealed that the oak came from the Polish/Baltic region and that the panel could have been painted from 1598, with the most plausible dating from 1604.1 As revealed in fig.2, the panel required rejoining in the past, with canvas strips and wooden buttons applied to the reverse to reinforce the joins. These buttons are very obvious in the X-radiograph (fig.3). From the front the panel has a smooth surface with a slight forward bow and a step between the right and central planks. It is possible that the bottom edge and both sides have been trimmed since being painted; the paint at the bottom and side edges reaches the very edge of the panel, with design elements in the costume being truncated, whereas at the top edge the paint stops short of the edge of the panel by a few millimetres.
There is evidence of glue sizing on the panel at this unpainted top strip. After that the panel was given two coats of white chalk bound in animal glue to form the ground (fig.4). The cross-sections reveal very thin, greyish brown priming on top of the ground; it is rich in oil medium and contains chalk, lead white, bone black, kaolin, and earth colours. Infrared reflectography reveals freehand drawing in a fine, crumbly pointed tool, in the collar and hands. This type of drawing is not apparent in the face, where fine, brushed lines appear to delineate the features (figs.5–11).
The black costume was first painted in grey before being finished in rich black (figs.12–14). The binding medium throughout appears to be pure oil, as there is no fluorescence in the black when viewed in ultraviolet light. The principal pigment is bone black, with smaller additions of lead white; earth colours; chalk; probably some lake, dolomite and finally a copper pigment to aid the drying of the paint. The embroidered sword belt contains some expensive, highly coloured pigments: orpiment for the rich orangey yellow; azurite for the blue; lead-tin yellow; vermilion and red lake, and probably verdigris (figs.15–17).2 The delicate stiffened lace of the collar and at the wrists is painted with pure lead white (figs.18–19).
All areas of the black costume suffer from lead soap aggregates that have pushed through the surface of the paint (figs.20–25). Where they are densely scattered, as they are on the sleeves at the wrists, they detract from the contrast of fine white lace overlying deep black brocade (figs.22–24).3
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August 2020